This was a lot harder than it seemed.

The frames and windows were put in with some magical Taiwanese black goo that makes 3M5200 look like that mint paste from your elementary school days!

The trick was not to ding up the interior teak paneling too much.

Here is where things got interesting. We needed something to "take up" the space around the corners, as the new windows would have rounded corners and would otherwise leave spaces. I purposely ordered them about an inch or so smaller all the way around to be sure of us being able to cut the holes out. In addition, the windows themselves were "clamp" type that were held in place by squeezing the bulkhead between the outside window and an inside trim ring.

Inside, 1/2" plywood was used as a backing and a spacer. This provided a uniform thickness for clamping the windows. along the edge of the window opening, we ground out the wood core material and then epoxied foam core in its place to prevent any possible rotting later.

Finally, the outside edges were ground down and faired for later glassing, cutting out (radiused corners), fairing, and then painting. The new fiberglass was brought way in so that the opening could be re-cut with plenty of margin.

Here you can see the space left by the new windows.

The black interior trim ring just clamps the window to the outside (after liberal amounts of Lifecaulk on a VERY clean surface!) Each window had about 25 screws around the perimeter.

You can see the center pilothouse window is the hatch type with dogging latches - very nice product.

All of the side windows are 1/4" glass and the forward pilothouse are 3/8" safety glass. All windows and doors were ordered custom sized from Diamond Seaglaze (http://www.diamondseaglaze.com). All very nice work and sturdy craftsmanship. Good folks to work with, too.

I am sorry that I do not have any more pictures of the door portion of the project, but it was fairly straightforward. The door and it's sliders just through-bolted (with another trim ring inside) to the original opening, cut to the new size.

I had the opposite sizing problem with the doors as compared to the windows. I actually ordered the doors about 1 inch larger than the existing opening for a couple of reasons, one is, well, there was room (duh!), and the other is that the door openings were raked forward a little to match the visual appearance of the pilothouse forward windows. There was no way I was going to attempt to order a door to match that, so I just straightened up the openings. Some of the side windows had this "feature" too, so I squared them up as well.

Well, as you can see in the pictures in the previous step, I had one thing left to deal with - the bare plywood inside.

We considered several options:

Cut the teak paneling somewhere and try to match it up with a new piece that fit the new size.
Cut out rings from a solid piece of laminate or thin ply.
Have the yard's wood shop fabricate some trim rings from teak.

I didn't like any of those options, the first two for looks, and the third for the cost!

So, like an idiot, I decided to do it myself!

I bought strips of cherry (cheaper than teak), and cut 4 sides and 4 corners for each window. This method used the least amount of wood, but ended up looking worst of any other arrangement.

So, now.....you do the math: 14 windows, times 4 sides pieces each, times 4 corners each, then each requiring routing, sanding, varnishing........whew!

Well, anyway, that's done. Here's what they looked like when it was all done (still a little construction dust around):

(don't forget: click on any of the small pictures for a large one!)